Diary:

Day ?

Lost track a bit. There were a couple days of a small swell which we made the most of, but having seen the potential of the place we were itching for more. This led to escalating tomfoolery; jumping off the boat, backflipping off the boat, diving of the boat and nearly, oh so nearly, dropping a bottle of whisky over the side and free diving for it, but common sense prevailed.

Anyway, today is a good day. Perfect sunny dawn, as we motored back to the sweet righthander. On the way we pulled up a tuna that had been bitten in half while on the line by something with very big teeth! The right was firing; solid 4ft peeling waves. A mellow take off into a long wall with a sucky barrel section to finish. Surfed for hours til lunch then surfed for hours til dark. Joel and Soph did their pro surfer bit for the camera. Joel is on fire, Soph is putting us to shame with her fearlessness. The rest of us avoid the wide sets and tried to tuck into a few inside barrels. It was super shallow on the inside, but we all escaped with only a few scratches from the coral. Late afternoon a huge rainstorm blew in which glassed off the waves after it passed. Plenty of beers tonight.

Day 13

Nice surf today. So surfed out after yesterday we’re happy with the shoulder/head  high clean waves coming through. And its not like we have to worry about crowds. There’s only one other surf boat for hundreds of miles and that only has 4 guys on it!
It’s one of the crew’s birthdays tonight so we’re having a barbeque on the boat. After a quick sunset beer and fire on one of the many desert islands that make up this chain its back to the boat for sailfish steaks, freshly caught today. Later the crew get their drums out and we have an impromptu party on the top deck, they’re all singing and laughing and dancing and playing their drums. Our photographer decides he needs to cool off and leaps over the side into the black lagoon 25ft below. After a brief pause everyone follows and even those that didn’t want to swim are thrown in.